Farm-to-table a way of life, business for Chico’s ethnic cuisine scene (2024)

Chico walks the locavore talk. In fact, the city walks it in more ways than one. It’s supported in the farmers markets and many farm-to-table restaurants.

Farm-to-table defines the fascination visitors and locals have with farm-life, getting back to the land and enjoying food that is freshly harvested or prepared.

This concept is not new. However, Chico is growing the farm fresh niche market to provide everyone with the best farm delights including fruits, vegetables, honey, olive oil, wine, poultry, meats, heirloom beans, and (even) fresh baked breads and pastries.

Grana’s chef and owner, Jeff King, enthusiastically embraces farm-to-table.

“There was a unique opportunity to design our menu around local farms — everything from cheese and eggs to seasonal fruits and vegetables,” King said. “We have a great relationship with our farmers. There’s no reason we shouldn’t take advantage of the bountiful changing seasons.”

Meanwhile, an international culinary world is evolving around Chico and its farm-to-table mantra. This fusion of cultures translates into an array of delicious specialty eateries many of which are newcomers to Chico’s budding gastronomic landscape and community. You can experience the world in Chico one bite at a time. Made-from-scratch goods are fresh and easy on the pocket and many also embrace farm-to-table philosophies.

Here are some new (and not so new) palate pleasers on Chico’s epicurean table.

Lili’s Brazilian Bistro

Lili Da Silva is the chef and owner of the restaurant at 142 Broadway.

A talented and multi-tasking woman, and despite some early challenges, Da Silva continues to count her blessings.

Celebrating just more than a year on what may soon become Chico’s ethnic cuisine zone; Da Silva grew up going to the farmers market with her parents in Brazil.

She particularly enjoyed making the pastéis (a traditional Brazilian fast-food) on Sunday nights.

“With so many options in Chico, I couldn’t find food to make me feel at home. I wanted to bring the food that I love to the community; a healthy way to eat, and eat for the seasons. We have so much bounty — we can cook so many dishes year-round,” Da Silva said. “I am so grateful for all the support. The bistro is my house — an extension of my home. A reflection of my being, the color of my country — it has a living room, dining room and kitchen — the heart of the house and the heart of downtown. I want people to come to my heart and my home. I cook with so much love. I want to make sure there is love in every corner.”

Favorites at Lili’s include the Feijoada (a pork and bean stew served over rice), Stroganoff (tender chicken, coated in a creamy mushroom sauce, served over seasoned white rice), Moqueca (baked tilapia coated in a creamy sauce made from blended coconut cream, garlic, olive oil, tomato paste, tossed with bits of bell pepper) and Vegana (a medley of baked seasonal veggies on a crispy French roll with a vegan butter spread).

A special Brazilian steakhouse prix fix dinner menu is now featured on Thursday. Vegetarian and vegan buffet with table service of pork, seafood, lamb, chicken and beef.

Make your reservations.

Sipho’s Jamaican Café

Newton “Sipho” Merritt is the chef and owner of the restaurant at 1228 Dayton Road.

Sipho has a colorful past which has translated to his Sipho’s Jamaica Café. In the construction business in Los Angeles and road manager for his uncle, reggae icon Jimmy Cliff, he traveled the world for many years. Visiting an A&R (artists and repertoire) friend in Chico, he fell in love with the city. He was hungry and asked if there was a Jamaican restaurant.

“They all laughed,” Sipho said. “Maybe I should come back and then check this out.”

The seed was planted.

“My instincts motivate me. When I came here the motivation was, if there’s no Jamaican culture here — let’s create that. After two years of renovating the restaurant and taste-testing recipes with my dad, Sipho’s was ready to open in 2011.”

A broad audience enjoys Sipho’s extensive menu. While he’s a vegetarian and adheres to a Rastafarian diet (no pork, shellfish, dairy), others said he should do a vegetarian restaurant. True Jamaican cuisine includes many meat dishes. Something that was strictly vegetarian wouldn’t be a true representation of the culture and how his mom and family cooked.

Carnivores and veg-heads will find loving comfort at Sipho’s. The jerk chicken, curried goat, and Rasta pasta are top performers.

“The body is a temple. You have to treat it right. Food should be clean and healthy and done with a lot of love. Over the years local gardens have provided peppers, pumpkins, greens, and shopping local for other ingredients.”

Sipho’s is family and dog friendly; all ages appreciate the vibe and ambiance.

Don’t miss the second Saturday Tempo Reggae Party, and check out the Jamaican buffet. And look for Sipho’s at the Chico Thursday Night Market on Thursdays through Sept. 26.

Oshio

Micki Kim is the chef and owner of the restaurant at 501 Main St.

Kim, who is originally from Korea, moved to Chico from Sacramento in 2015 to follow her dream to be a chef — a food truck was the easy option to (literally) get her show on the road.

“Before jumping into a brick-and-mortar restaurant, my husband, Daniel (who is also a chef), and I decided on the truck — it was all our budget could afford,” Kim recalls. “It was very tough working 12-13 hours a day for four years, but it allowed the community to get to know us.”

Many of their food truck fans have followed them to the restaurant.

Kim loves to cook! She was ecstatic to bring healthy, traditional Korean food to Chico at a time when there weren’t any restaurants offering the cuisine, and she is still the only Korean restaurant in Chico.

“Our restaurant is not traditional Korean — more of a fusion style, blending culinary traditions to create innovative dishes.”

Hospitality is important; appropriately they chose the name Oshio which means “welcome, please come in.” In a true collaboration, Micki and Daniel Kim are always there to greet you, but Micki Kim is the driving force. Everything is made from scratch, just like what they would eat at home. She is proud to say they provide nothing but the freshest food every day.

“For many of the Korean specialties, it requires driving to Sacramento to get Korean cabbage, original vegetables, spices and sauces; and shopping at a Korean butcher shop where they cut meat exactly like we want it,” she said.

Popular menu items include Bibimbap (one of Kim’s personal favorites and a well-known Korean dish) is a rice bowl topped with all sorts of seasoned sautéed vegetables, marinated meat, a fried egg sunny side up, finished with a sprinkle of sesame and generous dollop of a sweet-spicy-savory sauce, and Japchae, sweet potato noodles with lots of veggies inside.

“I love Chico. Everyone is so friendly, and mellow, and helps each other. We are still working long hours, but happy to share our best with the community.”

Sofi’z Kitchen and Bar

Sofia Ahmed is the chef and owner of the restaurant at134 Broadway.

Having emigrated from Pakistan to New Jersey, Ahmed successfully opened a restaurant. Then three months later — the COVID pandemic! The restaurant closed.

“A friend in Chico convinced me to visit for two weeks and it all unfolded from there. My family depends on me and I could see this was good for them. We rented a house on Vallombrosa Avenue. Started running and walking in Bidwell Park. The whole neighborhood was so welcoming. We felt like we’d been here forever. So despite some initial doubts, I know it was meant to be.” Sofia said.

“This was a whole new life — I never thought we would live here,” Ahmed said.

“Driving from Sacramento, I kept wondering where we were going. It was hot and dry; only fields for miles and miles. It was a surprise for my family — it was a beautiful town. I’m so blessed — my son and dad said they love Chico. Not too small, not too big. I always try to focus on the best part.”

Unlike Indian food, Pakistanis consume more protein through their heavily meat-based diet; however, side dishes tend to be potato, bread or vegetable based; still plenty of options for vegetarian diners. Be forewarned: Did someone say, “Spicy?”

Eating healthy seems to define most Asian foods. Sofi’z, specializing in West and Southwest Asian, shares that same philosophy along with embracing local produce.

“We prepare authentic, family-loved recipes with fresh Halal meat (which follows Islamic dietary laws) and aromatic spices from Pakistan. Our fresh vegetables are prepped daily and cooked separately before blending them with other ingredients to complete the final dish.”

Sofi’z portions are easy to share and provide leftovers for the next day. Ahmed says “so customers will remember me.”

The menu is extensive, deciding is challenging. Local favorites include butter chicken, chicken tikka masala, Malai Boti, goat curry, samosa and chana chaat.

The colorful décor reflects Ahmed’s celebrity background. Yes, Chico, a star in our midst, Ahmed was a TV host and model. You’ll want to hear that story.

Phở Bonsa

Thanh Le is the owner of the restaurant at 221 Normal Ave. No. B which bills itself as “an authentic Vietnamese noodle soup restaurant.”

Le, an engineer and entrepreneur, was attracted Chico’s small-town vibe after visiting with his niece. Phở Bonsa opened in 2023 adding a diverse taste of time-honored Vietnamese soup to Chico. Le’s sister-in-law ran a phở restaurant in Vietnam and brought family recipes with her. When the opportunity arose to cook authentic meals every day on the corner of West Second Street and Normal Avenue, the entire family embraced the venture. Le, who handles the front of house and helps with cooking sparingly, marveled at the positive response from students so soon after opening the store.

“I think we were initially a little bit nervous about how the community would respond,” Le said. ”After a few weeks, we found out that everyone really liked it. The customers responded well, and it’s very encouraging for us to continue to work.”

Le said he was surprised at how popular Vietnamese food is in the United States; even remarking that he saw the word “phở” in a dictionary the other day. Cooked overnight, preparation of the broth is very traditional — no cutting corners to create the distinct flavor. A vegetarian version is prepared separately.

Besides a lucky 13 varieties of phở (the most popular meatball and brisket), the menu includes bao (delicious, warm stuffing wrapped inside a sweet, white dough) dumplings (pot stickers), egg rolls, and spring rolls. The shop hopes to add bánh mì sandwiches to its menu soon.

A harrowing story, Le was 10 years old when his family, along with 31 others, escaped Vietnam by boat. They were eventually rescued by a Pakistani freighter.

Eventually they immigrated to Memphis then moved to Westminster in Orange County, which houses the largest Vietnamese community in California, and then San Jose before landing in Chico.

In a soft voice Lesaid, “I always wanted to go back to a small town. I don’t miss the traffic, and the people are friendly and open here.”

PB&Jimmy

Youa Vang is the chef and owner of the restaurant at 119 W. Second St.

“Thinking back about our move to Chico — we wanted to open a sustainable sushi restaurant. We went cold turkey; didn’t know anything about business management before diving in,” Vang said.

Wife and husband chef and restaurateur duo Youa Vang and Jimmy Lee successfully relocated Aonami Sustainable Sushi from Nord Avenue to West Second Street. After moving to downtown, they opened their second venture across the street called Lucky Poke. Then, not so lucky, the COVID-19 pandemic.

As they say, “every cloud has a silver lining.”

“Lucky Poke was Plan A, but there were so many other poke restaurants in Chico, post-COVID we decided to do something different. PB&Jimmy was born as Plan B. Very catchy, funny and we ran with that. Of course everyone thought Peanut Butter and Jimmy, so that draws attention to the place.” Vang said.

Happily, they evolved a Southeast Asian menu with a Japanese-fusion flair. Lee let Vang handle everything.

“We look at each other across the street; it’s fun working this way. He’s very passionate about helping me. Many of the recipes are inspired by my mom and grandmother and my mother-in-law, but I have made them my own,” Vang said.

Vang’s Japanese milk bread is a crowd pleaser; the ingredients are top secret. While following a traditional recipe, she made a mistake, “mine is authentic Chico. I got to make my own version. The heart and soul of the katsu sando sandwich (spicy chicken) and strawberry cream sandwiches, the bread is baked daily; keeping up with the demand is difficult.”

Everything is made as fresh as possible. Vang brews her own Thai tea — Thai tea leaf, palm sugar and heavy cream. She tried other options but this was the best.

PB&Jimmy is trying to bring a little bit of everything from their culture: chicken feet and gizzards, crispy pork belly, Hmong sausage and homemade pepper sauce. She’s also working on a vegan menu.

“We want to cater to everyone — college students, families, tourists. It’s a wonderful community — we hope to be here a long time.”

Farm-to-table a way of life, business for Chico’s ethnic cuisine scene (2024)
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